Headlights – Why You Can See Where You’re Going at Night by Roger Sitterly

Roger is making the information available to all via this post. Copied without amendment, statements and opinions are his alone.

Introduction

This is the first of a periodic series of articles I hope to write that will discuss some of the options available to MINI owners who wish to enhance the quality of their driving experience. We all know the MINI is a great car right out of the box, but because it, like any other car, is the result of numerous compromises in its design, there are a lot of things that can be done to create the perfect MINI that you’ve specialized just for yourself.

Some of what I write may be well known to you already. I hope, however, that at least some of what I present will provide new information to help you decide what, if anything, you would like to change on your MINI to make it, like MINI says, “You-nique”. Possible future topics include auxiliary lights (fog and driving), brakes, tires, wheels, suspensions, aerodynamics, and perhaps some other things.

Right up front, I want to make it clear that I’m not an engineer of any kind, and I’m not a good-enough mechanic to make my living at that trade. I’m simply someone who has been in love with sports cars for more than 40 years, who learned how to synchronize a pair of SUs with a ruler and the cardboard tube from a roll of paper towels, and who has done more than his fair share of reading and research into various topics in an effort to improve the quality of my personal driving experience. If, at any time, you think I’ve blown a head gasket (or worse), put your thoughts down on paper and submit them to the club. If you’ve got a reasonable perspective on a particular point, we’ll post it for others to read and evaluate for themselves.

Now, on to the subject of this article.

Headlights

The design, effectiveness, and efficiency of headlights have all come a long way since the days of the original (now referred to as “classic”) Mini Cooper. For several decades, the United States lagged behind the rest of the world in the type of lighting technology that was allowed on cars sold in this country. That has now changed, and our MINIs are, thankfully, available with state-of-the-art headlights. After-dark driving has, as a result, become much safer.

Back in 1959, when the original Mini was introduced, sealed-beam headlights were the only legal headlights in the U.S. Cars could have two seven-inch units, or they could have four five and three-quarters inch units, but the construction required by federal regulation was the sealed beam first introduced in 1940. The advantage of this regulation was that replacement headlights were extremely inexpensive and could be found everywhere. The disadvantage was that by the time the regulations were changed in 1978, cars being sold in this country had been stuck for nearly 20 years with lighting technology that had truly become a “dim bulb” idea.

Our new MINIs have much better headlights, and we should all be grateful for this. However, there are some things on the horizon with the potential to render even Xenon HID headlights something of a “dim bulb” idea.

Sealed Beam Headlights

Sealed beam headlights came into being as the automotive industry developed better technology than had graced cars prior to 1940. It was, at the time, a step forward. Essentially, the complete unit was nothing more than a very large light bulb with a parabolic reflector, two strategically-located filaments (high and low beam), and a lens that focused the light to create a coherent beam. That beam, when projected onto a flat vertical surface in front of the car, had an oval high intensity area that was typically a bit wider than it was high, and there was reduced illumination all the way around the high-intensity zone. Both high and low beams had the same illumination pattern, and only placement of the low-beam filament away from the focal point of the reflector was responsible for the “dipping” of the beam pattern. When properly aimed, the low beam pattern’s high-intensity zone typically covered only about three quarters of a lane, and a common practice was to aim the passenger-side beam slightly higher than that on the driver’s side.

Two sealed beam lights low beamTwo sealed beam lights low beam

Two sealed beam lights high beam Two sealed beam lights high beam

While the U.S. lived with an antiquated headlight design, Europeans were moving forward with a design that featured a replaceable bulb and separate reflector. In addition, high beam and low beam patterns were distinctly different. The European high beam pattern resembled the American pattern, but the low beam pattern featured a much wider horizontal spread of light (typically the high intensity zone covered nearly two lanes of the roadway) with an extremely sharp horizontal cutoff of the high intensity zone in the area where the beam spread into the left-hand lane of the road. This allowed for the use of more powerful bulbs in the lights because very little glare was produced to blind on-coming traffic when the lights were properly aimed.

Two Euro-code lights low beam Two Euro-code lights low beam

Two Euro-code lights high beamTwo Euro-code lights high beam

Quartz-Halogen (QI) Headlights

In 1962, the Europeans produced the first commercial quartz-halogen headlight bulb. This bulb, when used in headlights with a separate reflector, produced more light, usually had a much longer life, and was in all ways vastly superior to sealed-beam units. The innovation was the use of a halogen gas (usually iodine, and hence the common abbreviation of “QI” for the bulbs) in the atmosphere surrounding the tungsten filament.

In a normal incandescent light bulb (like a sealed-beam headlight or a typical household light bulb) the filament slowly vaporizes as it produces light and heat. The tungsten vapor produced is then deposited more or less evenly on all the interior surfaces of the bulb. That’s why a blown incandescent light bulb from your kitchen has a black area on the inside that’s visible if you look for it (it localizes somewhat because the tungsten vapor floats upward so the upper inside surface gets more heavily coated). Sealed beam headlights have so much interior surface that minimal blackening of the lens and reflector takes place over the life of the bulb and there’s not much degradation of the light output. This was one of the attractions of the technology when it was introduced in 1940.

Quartz-halogen bulbs take advantage of chemistry to overcome the problem of a slowly vaporizing filament. When a hot filament out-gases tungsten vapor in a halogen atmosphere, a chemical reaction takes place with the surrounding halogen gas and the vapor is re-deposited on the filament and nowhere else. In fact, any vaporized tungsten previously deposited on the inside of a bulb’s surface will be scavenged by the halogen gas and redeposited on the filament. This chemical reaction depends on having a truly white-hot filament, one so hot that in close proximity to the bulb’s envelope, it would melt the type of glass used in a sealed beam headlight. To overcome this problem, the bulbs are not made of ordinary glass but instead are made of quartz or alumino-silicate glass (neither of which will melt until they reach temperatures well in excess of 2,500o Fahrenheit). In addition to having a higher luminosity (output of lumens), QI bulbs also have a higher Kelvin temperature. This makes their light appear much whiter than that from a sealed-beam headlight.

The Color Temperature of Light

The Kelvin temperature scale measures the color emitted by a standard black body based on the temperature in degrees Kelvin of that body as it emits light. For example, a sealed-beam unit with a Kelvin temperature of 2,000o is emitting a color of light identical to that emitted by the standard black body when heated to 2,000o K (or 3,140o Fahrenheit). The closer to natural sunlight the Kelvin temperature of a light source, the more natural it appears (assuming it emits light throughout the entire spectrum, as is the case with a tungsten filament). Lights with lower Kelvin temperatures tend to look yellowish to the human eye; as the Kelvin temperature increases, the lights appear whiter. As the Kelvin temperature surpasses that of bright daylight, the lights tend to appear very slightly bluish to the human eye. Keep in mind that Kelvin temperature is the temperature equivalent of the emitted light, NOT the temperature of the filament emitting the light.

High-Intensity Discharge (HID) Headlights

Fast-forward to 1991, and BMW (on the 7-series) introduced the first commercially available Xenon HID headlights. This lighting technology has significant advantages over the use of tungsten-filament QI headlights. HID headlights emit more than twice as many lumens of light as a QI headlight and that light has a Kelvin temperature that is higher than bright daylight (which is what gives them their characteristic slightly-blue appearance).

SIDE NOTE – When you see oncoming headlights that are distinctly bright blue and that produce excessive glare, they’re not HID. Very likely they’re some cheap QI bulb with a blue coating on the surface of the bulb. Because they’re cheaply made, the filament(s) are usually not accurately located, so they tend to create far less usable light for the driver of the car and far more glare for oncoming traffic than they should. I once bought a cheap replacement H-1 bulb for a Carello driving light – the beam pattern went from a well-focused oval that projected about 100 yards down the road to three separate scattershot beams that very nicely illuminated only the tops of all the trees in the neighborhood. Lesson learned about cheap QI bulbs.

Back to Xenon HID lights. An HID light doesn’t use a bulb in the normal sense of the word – the proper term is “capsule”. There is no filament. Instead, it’s an arc light – light is created by passing an electrical current of considerable voltage through metallic salts contained within the capsule’s atmosphere. Instead of a halogen gas inside, HID bulbs use one of the noble gases. Another correct term for the lights is “metal halide”, and a common application is in street lights. Automotive HID lights generally use xenon as the gas atmosphere within the capsule, while streetlights and other applications usually use argon. Argon is not suitable for automotive use because it takes an argon light several minutes between the time it’s turned on and the time it reaches operating temperature. Xenon allows this time to be cut to just a few seconds.

HL 5 Euro code HID low beam lights
European HID low beams
HL 6 Euro code QI low beam lights
European QI low beams

Notice the obvious difference in “whiteness” in the above two illustrations. This is solely a function of the Kelvin temperature of the light, and is in no way related to the wattage or lumens of output.

Because HID lights can’t operate on 12 volts of DC power, they require an igniter and a ballast. If you have HID lights on your MINI, pay attention to what you see the next time you turn them on in the garage after dark. There will be an immediate quick flash of light (the igniter firing), after which there will be a somewhat dim light emitted for a few seconds. As the seconds pass, the capsule comes up to full operating temperature/output, and the emitted light becomes noticeably brighter and more spectrally complete.

You may also notice the automatic self-leveling system adjusting the lights’ aim for the car’s current load and stance. While not required in the U.S., automatic self-leveling of HID lights is required in Europe, so we get it here because it’s less expensive for MINI to provide it than to have two kinds of HID lights on MINIs, depending on where they’re sold. The warning label on the ballast means what it says – MINI HID lights operate at 25,000 volts. You DO NOT want to be playing around with them when they’re lit up.

Here’s a table comparing various sources of light for a driver. I couldn’t find wattage numbers for LED headlights.

Headlight Type Watts (at 12V) Typical Lumens/Watt Kelvin temperature
Sealed beam, low 40 17 2,000o
Sealed beam, high 50 17 2,000o
Quartz-halogen 55 28 3,600o
Xenon HID 35 91 5,400o
LED 100 6,500o
Bright sunlight 4,900o

Reflector Design

In addition to technologically improved sources of light (from normal incandescent to QI to HID), reflector technology has also improved, which puts more of the emitted light where it needs to go. Sealed beam lights used a more-or-less standard parabolic reflector and depended on the optics of the lens to create a usable beam pattern. Beginning in the mid-1980s, manufacturers both in Europe and the U.S. began working on headlights with a perfectly clear lens and a complex reflector – the reflector did all the focusing work and the lens merely protected the unit from the elements.

Complex reflectors utilize multiple three-dimensional segments, each with different complex contours, so that in unison they project the beam where the engineers want it to go. The standard QI headlight on a MINI is a perfect example of a complex reflector. A variation on this theme is known as the “free-form” light. Free-form lights have complex reflectors, but there are no obvious segments. Instead, the “segments” transition smoothly from one to the next, giving the impression of a “normal” parabolic reflector while in fact yielding a carefully-designed beam pattern. The stock fog lights on at least the first generation MINIs are an example of a free-form light. I haven’t looked closely at the OEM fog lights on a second-gen car.

The Next Steps and the Future

Initially, HID headlights were available only for low beam applications. My 2004 MINI “S” is an example. This limitation is a direct result of HID lights needing at least a few seconds to come up to full operating output, and that makes it impossible to switch between high and low beams without incurring a delay during which the driver would have great difficulty seeing where he/she was going. In my car low beams are always illuminated, even when the QI high beams have been selected.

The problem with having high and low HID beams in one headlight unit has now been solved with the introduction of a movable shade inside the unit. With the shade in the light path, the light operates on low beam because the shade blocks part of the beam pattern. With the shade out of the way, high beam is projected. This gives drivers the best lighting available on both low and high beams.

Adaptive headlights are also becoming available (MINI now offers them – they weren’t available for my 2004). These headlights mimic the Cyclops light on Preston Tucker’s 1948 “Torpedo” that pivoted left and right with movement of the steering wheel. This pivoting headlight allowed drivers to see further into corners, though the Tucker’s mechanical system was cumbersome. Today’s technology makes it more feasible to execute the idea – microprocessors and small electric motors can accomplish the desired pivoting movement more easily and more reliably.

Coming soon to a car in the next lane may be LED headlights. Beginning in 2004, LED headlight application has been seen as one path to the future. In 2007 (for 2008 models) Lexus became the first to use LEDs for headlights on vehicles sold to the public, and the 2010 Toyota Prius offered them as an option. Some Audis and the Cadillac Escalade also have LED headlights. Many more are using LEDs for daytime running lights. However, for headlight use there are still significant design problems to overcome, primarily due to the large amount of heat that must be removed from the units (you only think LEDs aren’t hot because you haven’t felt the back of a bank of them putting out enough light to be a headlight) and the fact that warm LEDs emit noticeably less light than do cold ones. The units are also very expensive relative to the cost of HID or QI units, and there apparently are some regulatory grey areas that remain to be clarified. I think it’s doubtful that your next MINI will have LED headlights.

Sounding more like Buck Rogers than scientifically possible is the use of lasers for automotive headlights. Before you chuckle and agree, however, you should know that BMW demonstrated what it calls “Laserlight” headlights at the 2011 Frankfurt Auto Show. Three small blue lasers are mounted in a triangle to constitute one headlight. The lasers shine onto small mirrors, which direct the beams into a lens. The lens is formulated with yellow phosphorus, which produces an intense white light when excited by the blue lasers. The white light is focused by the lens on a reflector that generates and projects the beam pattern down the road. Because it’s the white light generated by laser energy on the phosphorus, and because that light is reflected by a mirror, oncoming traffic is not looking directly at a laser, so there is no danger to other drivers’ eyes. BMW says the emitted light is more than 1,000 times as bright as LED headlights while using half the energy, though one published magazine report says the laser headlights produce “only” 170 lumens per watt of input, approximately double that of current HID headlights. Another report says BMW hopes to have them in production by 2013. If laser headlights do reach production, Cibié’s old tag line “portable daylight” may become reality.

I discuss auxiliary fog and driving lights in additional articles also available in our Technical Talk section.

February 8, 2013 – MINI Cooper Paceman Launch Event

I don’t know about you, but I’m quite excited to meet the newest member of the MINI family. To whet our whistles, MINI of Des Moines has been kind enough to put together a Paceman Launch Event on Friday, February 8th, 2013, from 3pm to 6pm at the MINI of Des Moines campus at 9900 Hickman Road.

From the official announcement:

The staff of MINI of Des Moines cordially invites you to see the newest member of the MINI Cooper family, the 2013 MINI Cooper Paceman! Join us for light appetizers, a drink, and a drawing for 2 tickets to the Blue Ribbon Bacon Festival, where the MINI Cooper Paceman will be displayed on Saturday, February 9th.

Ethanol in Your Gas by Roger Sitterly

Written for and distributed to the CIMC in February 2012. Since numerous non-CIMC MINI owners and Clubs have asked for this information, Roger is making the information available to all via this post. Copied without amendment, statements and opinions are his alone.

Ethanol in Your Gas

At the February 2012 club meeting, the subject of using “gasohol” (gasoline with ethanol blended into it) was raised. There is some serious debate about the wisdom of using ethanol-blended fuels in the engine of any modern automobile. The ethanol industry touts studies that show no evidence of damage to modern engines, and critics of the industry tout studies that show ethanol can and does cause sometimes extensive (and therefore expensive) damage to a car’s fuel system and/or engine.

I have assembled from various sources some basic information about ethanol-blended gasoline. Some of it is pretty simple and straightforward, some is a bit more complicated. I hope this will help everyone gain a better understanding of just what the discussion and controversy are about.

What is gasohol?

Most commonly, you will find “E-10” gasohol at service stations. That means the fuel you pump into your fuel tank can (and probably does) contain up to 10% ethanol by volume (the other 90% is supposed to be gasoline, but that is not always the case as will be shown below). Some “flex-fuel” vehicles sold today can use “E-85” fuel, which is supposed to contain up to 85% ethanol by volume (the other 15% is supposed to be gasoline).

An important point to keep in mind is that while Iowa (as well as probably all other states) regularly conducts tests on the accuracy of the dispensing pumps (to make sure you get 11.7 gallons of fuel when the meter says you’re being charged for 11.7 gallons of fuel), not one single state or other governmental entity is testing the quality of the fuel being dispensed. In other words, while you’re supposed to be getting no more than 10% ethanol when you pump E-10 fuel into your car, you could in fact be getting significantly more ethanol than you expect because there’s no quality check anywhere in the distribution system. It is possible to purchase a relatively inexpensive test kit that will enable you to determine the actual percentage of ethanol in any ethanol-blended fuel. I found a price range of between $30 and $50 in some quick on-line research, and those kits will perform up to 400 tests. The cost per test is therefore less than 25 cents, which might provide some inexpensive peace of mind for those who use ethanol-blended fuels in their cars.

Anecdotal evidence shows ethanol levels in E-10 fuel do sometimes significantly exceed the 10% stipulation. This most likely happens because ethanol is not added to fuel at the refinery; instead, it gets added at the local distributor level. According to David Redszus of Precision Auto Research, “The pump may say there is 10% ethanol in the fuel, but that can change every time the station’s tanks are filled, depending upon a variety of refining factors, including from whom the station buys its gas. You could be getting 10 percent, 12 percent, or even 15 percent, even at a name-brand station.” Distributors, Redszus says, “are supposed to add the right quantities of additives to the gas, but they may not have it dialed in.”

Excessive amounts of ethanol in what was being sold as E-10 fuel in the Dallas, Texas area is documented to have caused the following problem. A lady named Christi Jordan had a 2007 MINI that she took to Moritz MINI in Arlington for service. Her complaint was that it was difficult to start. Moritz’ mechanics inspected the car and found severe carbon buildup inside the engine. On a second visit, again because the car would not start, mechanics tested the ethanol content of the fuel in her car’s tank and found it “much higher than the federally-mandated limit of 10%.” The mechanics also found the ethanol levels had been so high they’d destroyed the fuel pump. The $1,200 repair bill was covered by Moritz as “good will” because the factory warranty did not apply (using fuel with excessive amounts of ethanol voids the warranty on any components damaged by using such fuel). However, other owners either may not be or may not have been as fortunate as Ms. Jordan. Most victims of such problems may not even be aware of the true cause simply because the fuel they’ve been using hasn’t been tested for levels of ethanol content. At the time of Ms. Jordan’s problem, a Moritz spokesman said the dealership had seen at least 10 other cases of “ethanol poisoning” over the previous six months.

Why is ethanol added to gasoline?

Years ago, tetraethyl lead was added to gasoline as an inexpensive way of boosting octane ratings (an explanation of what “octane” is and how octane ratings are determined is beyond the scope of this article – suffice to say higher octane ratings equate to a fuel being less prone to detonation or pre-ignition in the cylinder of an engine). This is no longer done because it was discovered that the lead was expelled as part of a car’s exhaust gasses, and was getting into the food chain, people’s lungs, and in general creating an extreme health hazard.

As leaded gas was phased out, refiners came up with other ways of enhancing octane ratings. About the same time as this was going on, the Environmental Protection Agency began looking for ways to reduce automotive exhaust gasses that contributed to smog in urban areas. These gasses are primarily carbon monoxide and various oxides of nitrogen.

Side note here – I’m old enough to have driven from Phoenix to Los Angeles by way of what is now I-10 through Indio, Palm Springs, and Riverside, California (in the late 1960s). At the Chiriaco Summit east of Indio, the road was about 1600 feet above sea level and the air was clear. In the distance I could easily see the peaks of the San Bernardino Mountains. Spread out in front of me as I looked toward Los Angeles was an apparent brown ocean – smog. About halfway down from Chiriaco Summit to Indio, I was enveloped in the stuff – I could smell it, I could taste it, and I couldn’t think of a single reason in the world why anyone would willingly live in that kind of atmosphere. That has changed significantly in the years since – in 2005 I made the same drive and the visible air pollution was only a light, whitish-colored haze. I have no doubt that increased pollution controls and regulations have made a massive difference in the amount and nastiness of urban air pollution.

Ethanol, when blended with gasoline, helps reduce exhaust-gas pollution by reducing the amount of carbon monoxide and oxides of nitrogen that are emitted from automobile exhaust pipes. This, I think most people will agree, is a good thing. At the same time, critics claim the reduction of automotive pollution is offset, perhaps more than offset, by the amount of pollution generated during the production and transportation of ethanol. In addition, the argument is made that using ethanol in gasoline merely moves the pollution from urban areas to other areas of the country. Determining an accurate answer to the question of ethanol’s total pollution impact is so complex that nobody has yet come up with a truly definitive answer, primarily because there are so many factors to consider. One reputable study, done by National Geographic Magazine in 2007, found that one unit of fossil fuel yielded 1.3 units of ethanol, for a net energy gain. However, because it takes 1.5 gallons of ethanol to yield the energy equivalent of 1.0 gallons of gasoline, it is possible there’s a net energy loss.

Ethanol is what’s known as an “oxygenating” agent when burned with gasoline. That is, the byproducts of ethanol combustion consist of carbon dioxide and water, and by adding ethanol to gasoline, the chemistry involved during the combustion process yields exhaust gasses with measurably lower levels of carbon monoxide and nitrogen oxides. In addition, it raises the octane rating of gasoline, helping compensate for the absence of tetraethyl lead. California, for some years, used methyl tertiary butyl ether (MTBE) as the oxygenating and octane-boosting agent added to gasoline, but that practice has been discontinued because persistent levels of MTBE, which renders water non-potable, were found in ground water.

What are the problems with ethanol?

1) Ethanol has less stored energy than gasoline. Ethanol contains approximately 76,000 BTU (British Thermal Units) of energy per gallon, while gasoline contains approximately 114,000 BTU of energy per gallon. Put another way, one gallon of gasoline contains about 1.5 times as much stored energy as one gallon of ethanol. Therefore, when ethanol is blended into gasoline, the resulting fuel contains less energy than pure gasoline, and all other factors remaining equal, fuel economy will decrease when ethanol-blended fuel is used. The impact may be relatively small, and may not be noticeable to some drivers. However, assuming no change in driving habits, changing from pure gasoline to E-10 fuel (assuming a true 10% ethanol blend) will reduce miles-per-gallon by approximately three percent. So, if you average 25 mpg in your MINI on pure gasoline, using E-10 is likely to reduce that level of economy to about 24 mpg. Is this a fair price to pay for cleaner urban air? Opinions vary, and keep in mind that if what you think is E-10 fuel really has 15% ethanol by volume, your mpg will drop by about five percent.

2) Ethanol is corrosive. Even fresh from the production plant, ethanol contains soluble contaminants such as halide and chloride ions. (Ions are atoms or molecules where the number of electrons does not equal the number of protons, thereby giving the atom or molecule a net positive or negative electrical charge.) Halide ions chemically attack the oxide films on metals and cause pitting of the metal. This can be a problem in metal fuel lines, for instance, as the halide ions slowly eat through the line. In early 2009 Lexus ordered the recall of 2006 through 2008 models (GS, IS, and LS series) because, according to Lexus, “ethanol fuels will corrode the internal surface of the fuel rails”. On a fuel-injected engine (such as all MINIs have) the fuel is delivered under moderate to significant pressure by the fuel rail, which has one port for each cylinder’s injector. Having ethanol-blended fuels eat tiny pinholes in those rails means that when they fail, they’re going to spray fuel all over a hot engine – a good recipe for an engine fire. (NOTE – This is NOT the cause of the engine fires that led to the recent MINI recall of turbo-charged models.) In addition, long-term use of ethanol-blended fuel may slowly corrode the injectors on a fuel-injected engine, causing the injectors to pulse more fuel than called for, causing the car to run rich (and reducing fuel economy while increasing pollution emissions), perhaps causing excessive carbon buildup on the pistons and valves, and perhaps poisoning the catalytic converter. Most, if not all, automobile manufacturers will tell you their cars are safe to drive using E-10 fuels, but many will also have a statement buried somewhere in their warranty that states the warranty does not cover damage done to a car when fuels containing more than 10% ethanol are used.

Ethanol also has different solvency behavior than gasoline. It will more readily loosen rust and other debris that would otherwise remain undisturbed in a pure gasoline fuel system. This can plug fuel filters, lines, and injectors. It also more readily attacks and removes plasticizers and resins from some plastic and rubber-based materials that are not affected at all by pure gasoline. And finally, liquid gasoline is not a good conductor of electricity (though a spark will ignite the vapors). Ethanol, however, is a very good electrical conductor, and as a result it promotes galvanic corrosion of metallic parts.

3) Ethanol is hygroscopic. That means ethanol loves water – in fact, likes it so much it will absorb water. That’s what people who used to use “dry gas” during the winter were counting on when they added a small amount of dry gas to each fill up. (NOTE: Adding a full 12-ounce container of dry gas to your MINI tank after filling it with 11 gallons of pure gasoline creates a mix that still consists of more than 99% gasoline – to get a fuel mix in your tank comparable to E-10 would require you to add 12 12-ounce containers of dry gas to your tank every time you filled the tank). Dry gas isn’t seen much anymore because most gasoline sold in this country today is blended with ethanol, and there’s no point in adding a small additional amount of ethanol (or isopropyl alcohol, as some dry gas products did) to a tank of E-10 because it won’t significantly increase the amount of water that is absorbed from the fuel. During the winter, condensation in the fuel tank is a somewhat larger problem than during the summer, which is why dry gas was added to a tank of fuel generally only during winter months.

Today the problem is different. With 10% or even more ethanol in the tank, there’s the ability to absorb more moisture from the atmosphere (or from fuel that’s been contaminated by some water). There is a limit, however, to the amount of water that can be absorbed before what’s called “phase separation” takes place. When there is 10% ethanol in the fuel, that limit is at a ratio of 3 gallons of water per 1000 gallons of fuel (in a MINI tank, that’s about five ounces of water per full tank of fuel).

Phase separation can cause very serious problems. When the amount of water absorbed by ethanol in fuel reaches saturation (about five ounces in your MINI tank), the three-component mix of water/gasoline/ethanol is likely to “phase separate” into two distinct levels of liquids in the tank. On the bottom will be the ethanol and water mixed together, and on top will float the lighter gasoline. The gasoline constituting the upper level will now have a reduced octane rating (perhaps as much as three points lower). If the fuel intake sucks just the now-separated gasoline, it is unlikely significant damage will occur at once. The MINI’s engine management computer can largely mitigate this problem by retarding timing to control detonation (also known as “knocking”) but there will be a noticeable drop in performance and fuel economy as a result. However, if the fuel intake sucks the ethanol/water mix, significant engine problems are extremely likely to result within a very short period of time because the MINI engine is not designed to run on fuel with more than 10% ethanol by volume.

4) Other problems: Possibly unforeseen and unintended consequences of widespread ethanol use include:

  • increased food prices world-wide as millions of bushels of corn in this country (as well as others, such as Brazil) are converted to ethanol instead of being exported, used as feed stock for cattle and hogs, or for the manufacture of domestic food products (corn flakes, corn syrup, etc).
  • increased use of marginally productive land for corn, perhaps increasing the amount of fertilizer and soil runoff that gets into the Mississippi River and extends the “dead zone” in the Gulf of Mexico.
  • increased deforestation in Brazil as that country strives to increase ethanol production to meet growing demand for fuels.

Because there are complex political and social issues related to these unintended consequences of ethanol production, I will not comment further.

What do I take from all of the above?

My personal opinion on ethanol-blended fuels is that I won’t use them in my MINI unless I have absolutely no choice. I don’t believe an occasional tank here or there will lead to long-term problems, but I do believe consistent use of ethanol-blended fuel is a recipe for expensive out-of-warranty repairs to the fuel pump, the fuel lines, the fuel injectors, and perhaps the engine itself. If I were like some owners and leased my MINI, or like some other owners who get a new car shortly after the new-car or extended warranty expires, perhaps I wouldn’t worry about this and I’d just let someone else inherit the problems. However, I already have 100,000 miles on my MINI, and my intent is to keep the car for many more years and many tens of thousands more miles. I feel any premium I pay for pure gasoline the vast majority of the time is a small price to pay to be reasonably sure I don’t end up with very expensive problems caused by using ethanol-blended fuel on a consistent basis.

2013 Board Members Elected

The Board members of 2013 were elected at the January membership meeting. A meeting of the board followed on January 15, 2013 and the following placements were made:

Scott Paulson, President
Jeremy Moyle, Vice-President
Treasurer: Ken Wilson
Jake Meyer: Secretary, membership coordinator
Dave Brennan, member at large
Jamie Hillegonds, website and social media coordinator, member at large

The 2013 Board Members are excited to begin planning out the CIMC 2013 calendar. Please let us know if you have any ideas for fun group events or if you have any questions about the Central Iowa MINI Club overall.

September 2012 – Swamp Fox Parade in Marion, Iowa

At the start in Marion During the parade Maddie Spencer Parade is done (1) Parade is done (4)Parade is done (2) Parade is done (3)

CIMC members participated in 2012 annual Swamp Fox Parade, a celebration of the past and the present, which honors Marion’s namesake and Revolutionary War hero, Francis Marion, aka the Swamp Fox. The perfect weather made for a fun time showing off our favorite little machines and helping the city of Marion celebrate their own special place in Iowa.

July 9, 2012 – MINI Takes the States Arrives in Des Moines

MINI Coopers from near and far descended on Des Moines as we welcomed the Motoring world to Central Iowa. Starting with dinner and visiting the animals at Blank Park Zoo, drinks at Johnny’s Sports Bar, and a fund-raiser pancake breakfast the next morning served by and with a free-will donation to benefit the Waukee Fire Department. After that, the MINIs hit the road again on the journey to Denver and, ultimately, Los Angeles. But before we all left, those nice fire fighters were kind enough to take a few pictures of us all from high atop one of the cranes.

May 19, 2012 – Joint Drive with Kansas City MINIs

The Club’s second event of the driving season, thanks to James Flowers, was hosting a joint drive with the Kansas City MINIs on Saturday. The drive started in Bethany, Missouri, and ended in Leon, Iowa, after passing through Nine Eagles State Park. There were two separate caravans from Des Moines to the starting point in Bethany, Missouri. The first left early and took several twisty back roads to the south. The second left later in the morning and headed straight down I-35. Thanks for planning a great event, James!

April 14, 2012 – Poker Run

Jesse James was hereLyle Kreps and his classic MiniBest poker hands being announced (3)

The 2012 driving season for Central Iowa MINI Club members began on Saturday, April 14, with a poker run. For those not familiar with the concept, participants followed a specific route and found specific stopping points along the way. At each stop, they drew a card or cards from a deck. Upon completion of the run, they had enough cards to make a poker hand. The person with the best hand won – and the worst! – won while also having experienced central Iowa’s criminal past!

Participants checked-in at their leisure between 11:30am to 1:30pm at Willis Auto Campus’ MINI of Des Moines Dealership and drew their first card before starting the drive. Even better, everyone in the car could play their own hand. The poker run was 128 miles long and took roughly 2.5 hours without extra stops. The weather threatened and tried to put a stop to the fun, but there’s no holding a MINI down. We saw the scene of a bank robbery in Adel that nearly took the life of an Iowa governor, checked out the site of Bonnie and Clyde’s last bank robbery in Stuart, and learned about Jesse James’ train robbery in Adair.

Although the start was somewhat flexible, everyone had to return to MINI of Des Moines by 4:00pm to draw their fifth and final card to be eligible to win. Willis was been kind enough to provide refreshments for all our road weary historians.